Day 12 - San Sebastian

24 December 2021

Up early. Walk to the beach. I had not realised how much I miss the ocean. San Sebastian is stunning. Its coast is stunning. The climate is stunning. You don’t want to leave.

Breakfast at Maiatza. Cortados. Eggs and salad. Excellent. Stroll around the city. Shopping list. We have decided to eat in for Christmas Eve and Christmas dinner.

I don’t do Christmas. I am not religious. It surprises me how many people partake in Christmas who are not religious.

Shopping list. Wine. Cheese. Charcuterie. Bread sticks. Fruit. Sweet cakes.

Wines sorted first. Amazing cellar. Essencia Wines. There are Rioja here dating back to the 1950’s. Incredible value. Under 60 Euro. Tempting. On a budget. Settle on-

2019 Arizcuren Monte Gatún Rioja

2019 Aseginolaza & Leunda Cuvée Las Santas

Cheese next. Elkano 1 Gaztagune. Small line to get in. Incredible range. I ask for something local.

‘Sure. How about the cheese I make myself?’ responds Gaztagune.

Local. Decide on -

Gaztagune Sugaar. A soft, raw sheep's milk cheese.

Gaztagune Aiaio Urdinn. A blue cheese. Also raw sheep’s milk.

Ekiola Manchego. Traditional raw sheep's milk cheese.

Egotia. A firm goat’s milk cheese from the Basque region.

“A silence fell at the mention of Gavard. They all looked at each other cautiously. As they were all rather short of breath by this time, it was the camembert they could smell. This cheese, with its gamy odour, had overpowered the milder smells of the marolles and the limbourg; its power was remarkable. Every now and then, however, a slight whiff, a flute-like note, came from the parmesan, while the bries came into play with their soft, musty smell, the gentle sound, so to speak, of a damp tambourine. The livarot launched into an overwhelming reprise, and the géromé kept up the symphony with a sustained high note.” ― Émile Zola

We stroll home. Drop off the cheese. Wine. Breadsticks. I have lost the card to unlock the door. Get a new one.

Head back out. Shell looks after desert. A tasting box of treats. Patisserie shops everywhere. Line ups as well. Pass a line up almost 50 m long. Seafood. Possible religious connection with Christmas and seafood.

Lunch. Paella. Txoko. Sit outside. Getting chilly. Two vino blanco. Order Paella de marisco. Notice calamares fritos go to another table. Order a plate. Wine, calamari and paella are all brilliant.

Charcuterie on the way home. Many places to choose from. Aitor Lasa. Grabbed some tinned anchovy filets. Dulce de membrillo for the cheese along with -

Chorizo riojano

Jamon Iberico De Bellota

Cabecero De Lomo

Chill at home for the afternoon. Prepare the platter. Wines for the evening-

2020 Bodegas Bhilar Blanco Villages

2019 Arizcuren Monte Gatún Rioja

Dinner was brilliant. Out on the balcony. Cheese and wine. 

Done by 9.00 pm. Repeat tomorrow night.

Great day.


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